CAMERA EXPOSURE
※ Download: Iso settings on camera
As Spencer and I looked at the ISO article again, we decided to take a different approach this time and see how easy it would be to try to explain it the right way. Personally, if I want to limit the amount of noise in a photo, I will set my maximum ISO to something like ISO 800, 1600, or 3200.
The lower number that you select the less sensitive the sensor is to light and conversely the higher the number the more sensitive it becomes. Otherwise, tho, another thoroughly good article from the PL team. Increasing the ISO setting only increases the gain applied to the image.
CAMERA EXPOSURE - After displaying the Shooting Settings screen, press the Quick Control button to shift to Quick Control mode and then highlight the ISO setting. We also participate in affiliate programs with Bluehost, ClCJ, ShareASale, and other sites.
One of the three pillars of photography that can dramatically affect the look of your images is camera ISO the other two being and. Like those two settings, ISO controls the brightness of your photos, and it is a crucial setting to use properly if you want to take the best possible images. In this chapter of Photography Basics article, we will explain ISO using simple language and examples so that you can make the most of it for your own photography. In very basic terms, ISO is simply a camera setting that will brighten or darken a photo. As you increase your ISO number, your photos will grow progressively brighter. For that reason, ISO is a good tool to help you capture images in dark environments or be more flexible about your aperture and shutter speed settings. However, raising your ISO has consequences. A photo taken at too high of an ISO will show a lot of grain, also known as noise, and might not be usable. So, brightening a photo via ISO is always a trade-off. You should only raise your ISO when you are unable to brighten the photo via shutter speed or aperture instead for example, if using a longer shutter speed would cause your subject to be blurry. Note how much brighter the image gets when ISO is increased from 100 to 1600 Common ISO Values Every camera has a different range of ISO values sometimes called ISO speeds that you can use. So, a photo at ISO 400 will be twice brighter than ISO 200, which will be twice brighter than ISO 100. What is Base ISO? This is a very important setting, because it gives you the potential to produce the highest image quality, minimizing the visibility of noise as much as possible. Some older DSLRs and a number of modern cameras, such as the Fuji X-T2 have a base ISO of 200, whereas most modern digital cameras have a base ISO of 100. Optimally, you should always try to stick to the base ISO to get the highest image quality. However, it is not always possible to do so, especially when working in low-light conditions. However, these are completely simulated and lower your image quality. We recommend avoiding them. Low vs High ISO Noise Visibility To give an example of two photos taken at different ISO values, take a look at the comparison below. Pay attention to the level of noise graininess and blotchy colors in the images: The difference is clear — the image at ISO 3200 has much more noise than the one at ISO 200 which I brightened with a long shutter speed instead. This is why you should avoid high ISOs whenever possible, unless conditions require you to use them. How to Change ISO Changing your ISO varies from camera to camera. Get out of Auto mode, and go to , , , or we tend to prefer Aperture Priority or Manual. Select the value you want, or set it to Auto. Press it while spinning one of the wheels to change your ISO setting. This makes things even easier. What ISO Should You Use? Below, we will cover some of the common scenarios you may come across. When to Use Low ISO As discussed above, you should always try to stick to the lowest ISO base ISO of your camera, which is typically ISO 100 or 200, whenever you can. If there is plenty of light, you are free to use a low ISO and minimize the appearance of noise as much as possible. Even in dim or dark environments, you still might be able to use a low ISO. For example, if you have your camera mounted on a tripod or sitting completely still on a table. However, keep in mind that if your camera does use a long shutter speed, anything that is moving will look like a ghost: Oh No! Just kidding, of course! I set the camera to the lowest ISO to retain the detail, which required a long shutter speed of five seconds in order to capture a bright enough photo. My nephew sat still, while my friend stepped in for a brief moment to introduce the ghost : When to Use High ISO Even though it is ideal to use low ISOs, there will be plenty of times when a high ISO is necessary in order to take a good photo in the first place. The simple reason is that you are often fighting against motion blur, and you will need to pick between a sharp photo at a high ISO, or a blurry photo at a low ISO. What would have happened if I had set ISO 100 on my camera instead? At that setting, there would have been a lot of unwanted motion blur in the picture, since the birds were moving so fast. In short, I would have ruined the picture. The bottom line is that you should increase the ISO when there is not enough light for the camera to capture a sharp, bright photo any other way. When I shoot handheld photos indoors without a flash, I always set my ISO to a higher number to capture the moment without introducing blur. Or, when photographing ultra-fast action like in the bird picture above, raising your ISO is often necessary. On most cameras, there is a setting for , which works great in low-light environments. The beauty of this setting is that you input the maximum ISO you are willing to use, so that the camera does not cross that limit. Personally, if I want to limit the amount of noise in a photo, I will set my maximum ISO to something like ISO 800, 1600, or 3200. The downside is that the camera will start using progressively longer shutter speeds if it reaches these ISO limits, which leads to more motion blur. Everything is a trade-off! Minimizing Noise and Maximizing Image Quality Some photographers think that the best way to capture high-quality images is to use Base ISO 100% of the time. However, as demonstrated above, that simply is not true. You should only use base ISO when there is enough light to do so. So, for certain types of sports and action photography, a high ISO might be your only option. Common ISO Myths and Misconceptions ISO has a lot of myths surrounding it, including some that are quite common to hear. In this section, we will quickly address some of those concerns so that you are not misled about this topic in the future. This is the most common myth related to ISO. It is something you will see all over the web and in print. Instead, digital sensors only have a single sensitivity, regardless of your ISO. It is more accurate to say that ISO is like a mapping to tell your camera how bright the output photo should be, given a particular input exposure. Is ISO Part of Exposure? No, ISO is not part of exposure. Shutter Speed and Aperture brighten your photo by physically capturing more light. Is Raising ISO Just Like Brightening Your Photo on a Computer? This is a clever question, but, again, it is simply a misconception. Brightening a photo on your computer can act in many ways like raising your ISO, since it does make noise more visible and it leads to a brighter image. But the simple difference is that raising your ISO in the camera nearly always provides better image quality than brightening a photo on your computer. In other words, it is better to use ISO 800 when necessary, rather than brightening an ISO 100 photo to a huge degree in post-processing software like Lightroom! Conclusion If you have any questions, comments or feedback, please post them in the comments section below. If you have enjoyed this article, please check out our in-depth , where we explore all the basics of photography in much more detail. It is an intensive, 5+ hour course with enough material to not only get you started today, but also to serve as a reference material in the future. Nasim Mansurov is the author and founder of Photography Life, based out of Denver, Colorado. He is recognized as one of the leading educators in the photography industry, conducting workshops, producing educational videos and frequently writing content for Photography Life. You can follow him on , and. Read more about Nasim. Reader Interactions on a d700 would you go up to 6400 iso in dark conditions, or would that be to grainy? Specifically on the auto iso feature, should I do 200-3200 or 200-6400. The reason I ask is because I had it on 200-6400 and I was taking some pictures in my house without the flash in a room lit by lamps and the auto iso was going all the way up to 6400. I was thinking going up to 6400 would be in almost pitch black conditions. I personally set my Auto ISO to 200-1600, but in some situations increase it to 3200 if my shutter speed is too low. I rarely increase it to 6400, because the noise starts affecting the sharpness of the image and I do not like it. Hope this helps : This is a great article, thanks Nasim. Am I correct in interpreting that to mean that the RAW image captured by the sensor is the same, regardless of what ISO you set the camera to? Nasin — Your website on DSLRs is, by far, the easiest to understand and most informative! Thanks for sharing your jewels of wisdom! Would you want someone to tell you to go and kill yourself? Would you want someone to tell you to go and kill yourself? Hi Nasim, You really did incredible work for beginners like me. I have one question, I am trying to take my nephews pictures. I am using Nikon D3000 18-55 VR lens. Let me know if you have any solution for it Thanks Oh, this particular exchange reminds me so much of why we bought a DSLR in the first place: My wife got tired of pointing the camera at kids and pressing the button; while the camera decided on its own good time when to expose the image, the kids moved off somewhere else, and we got a nice picture of our carpet. A Nikon D50 fixed that… :D Back to the thread: Nasim, I really like your articles — they do an excellent job of abstracting these sometimes daunting topics to a level digestible by folks more interested in making good images than in how the underlying stuff does its thing. For those with a modicum of electrical knowledge, I think pointing out that ISO-setting is equivalent to turning a volume knob on an audio amplifier — it controls the amount of amplification AFTER the signal is detected. Seher, I apologize for such a late response — I somehow missed your comment. Everybody obviously prefers to have noise-free images. I would not mind being able to shoot in the dark and have grain-free images : However, even the most advanced sensor technology cannot yet reach noise-free levels. Adobe Lightroom, for example, has a built-in capability to do this. I am wondering what calculation is used to determine Shutter Speed? Assuming is a fantastic day and you have PLENTY of light, and you are in Av mode, does it simply pick the lowest possible ISO and then calculate the Shutter Speed based Metering of Neutral Grey and assuming 18% Reflectance.. I am not sure if that question is more technical than it should be or if i am just exposing my ignorance.. Wesley, I apologize for a late response. The calculation of Shutter Speed depends on many variables, such as exposure mode Auto, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, etc , metering mode Evaluative, Spot, Area and aperture + ISO values. If you do not have such a feature, then the ISO value will be whatever is set on the camera normally base ISO such as 100 and the shutter speed will be automatically determined by the exposure meter on the camera. Hi Nasim, I have a Nikon D3100 and started photographing a lot lately. I did some potrait photography of my son outdoor suring noon time and partly shady. Was the post processing involved? JP, 1 It depends on how comfortable you are with noise. If it bothers you, then yes, there would be plenty of work involved. If I showed you images at 100%, you will definitely see more noise. In addition, the image you are referring to was shot on a full-frame camera, which handles noise much better than a DX camera. However, in some low-light situations you have to increase ISO or your images will be blurry. But that needs work and dedication and I have decided to do that. The first step was to google my question what is ISo in photography. I found you… and I appreciate what you have put up here, now to get going. Thanks for your care to be willing to put time and effort into sites such as yours. OK, pay attention closely. You need to think of ISO as building a picture using bricks. At ISO 100 it may take 1000 bricks to make an image. At ISO 200 you halve the number of bricks to 500. At ISO 400 you halve the number of bricks again to 125 bricks to make that image. There is no free lunch here! You are just trading resolution, detail, contrast, and saturation for shutter speeds or fstops. Set your camera to ISO 100 or 200 and leave it there if you want maximum resolution, detail, contrast, and saturation. Use stabilization where necessary! I take people walking in the woods all the time as a guide. Many have expensive SLRs. They may look down their nose at my Canon G12 how wrong they are. Many figure that their pics will be better if they have a more expensive camera. I see them set to auto everything. When their walk is over my pics are always better than theirs. How does that work? I know photography and I know my camera. Even with the magic cameras we have now, a camera is still just a box with a lens, an aperture, and a door that opens and closes. These relationships are necessary to understand if you want to become truly good. David, I appreciate the response and the excellent tutorial on ISO and the importance of basics. Mike Sensor science—Each pixel is an electrical switch. At native ISO, all works well, the sensor differentiates black and white, red and purple, etc. So, with perhaps thousands upon thousands of the wrong decisions, you get NOISE! Thanks for this guide — I enjoy photography, but low level, more hobbyist. I live in Scotland however and am blessed with stunning scenery all around. Currently on holiday in Appin, in the North West Highlands, and have my trusty camera Nikon Coolpix S6100 low budget, but good pics to hand! Also picked up Sony Xperia Z1 Compact that comes with a very decent 20MP camera onboard. Incorrect- There is always going to be noise if you set your ISO to extremely high values say around 3200-6400 and above even in the highest ends of cameras. This is one of the most expensive features of your camera, and what a lot of your money is going into when buying a camera. So when you have a setting with a lot of light such as your beautiful bird image, it is less likely that there will be a lot of noise? So generally in settings with a lot of light it is ok to increase the ISO? Not many cameras can shoot in low light at very low ISO. The ISO there setting is there to help you get pictures that you normally could not get in low light. The only thing you can do if your pictures turn out dark is to make sure your Aperture setting is as low as it goes this is usually done automatically unless you are in a manual mode. After that use the slowest possible Shutter speed until your pictures get bright enough to satisfy you. With practice you will be able to find what settings you need for most situations. It is best for outdoor photos. I am totally a beginner about cameras. The only thing I know about cameras is that Optical zooming is better than digital zooming in terms of capturing far-away views like landscapes, an aircraft or other objects at far distance. This conclusion is based on how phone cameras being digital unable to capture distanced objects as they get faded. Even in optical zoom cameras, there are two types if i am not wrong. I have to learn more about that. I have to learn more about bridge cameras and mirror less cameras like Sony alpha a6000. I like to photograph so i will like to go with manual photography where I can adjust the lens according to the distance and the object. You may guide me better assisting me on all above features that I am trying to learn before I buy a good camera. Thanks I come from a period in time when everything was film. When digital came along it was like learning photography all over again. ISO vs ASA and the newer digital lenses as well. Your various explanations have been most helpful and I thank you very much. I am now reading all your tutorials as you are great at explaining this stuff! I have wanted to get into armature photography forever, and just got a stunning new camera for my birthday, but no idea how to use it properly. Your website is so helpful!!! This is a reference to the shutter speed of the camera. It is how fast the shutter opens and closes when you take the picture. Imagine you are taking a picture of a helicopter flying overhead. The rotor on the helicopter is spinning at 6000 rpm if you do the math that is 100 times per second. So the helicopter would appear to be just suspended there in the air with no motion showing via the rotors. In essence, you can stop motion by going with a higher shutter speed. But this is the basic concept of shutter speed. In technical terms, ISO is really gain. It gets dialled in and then guides us what aperture and shutter speed we use. But it has no direct effect on the RAW file. The gain is applied when we process the RAW file later. Shutter speed and aperture is what controls the light that is recorded. The gain or ISO which requires an amplifier that has noise and amplifies noise , whether applied before or after, should be as little as possible. Rule is simple, capture as much light as possible and use as little gain as possible. The ISO is a tool to deal with that. I stopped reading at some points where I found that the idea of simplifying the ISO explanation is leading to wrong conclusions. Usually I agree on many of your articles, Nasim, but this time we have a different conception. As there are also sensors with more than one base ISO like the one of the D850 , the ISO setting leads to two different circuits and only one is activated to catch a high or low ISO frame. I see it as an amplification process of what shutter and aperture captured. That makes sense because by raising the amplification the sensitivity does not change. Brightness increses and because of amplification effects also the noise. Noise is highly overrated in this general statement. The lowest possible ISO can easily be 6400. Joachim, thank you for your feedback, we really appreciate it. I found that ISO sensitivity was very easy to explain for a beginner, especially those who have shot with film before, but always struggled with the fact that it was wrong to explain it that way. As Spencer and I looked at the ISO article again, we decided to take a different approach this time and see how easy it would be to try to explain it the right way. We had to exclude a number of things from the beginner ISO article, including ISO gain, invariance, dynamic range and other relevant topics. The idea was to keep everything simple enough for anyone to understand, especially those who have no idea about camera basics. You have to agree that we cannot talk about certain one-offs in the industry, such as the Nikon D850 or the GFX 50S which exhibits similar behavior at higher ISOs when talking about ISO overall. How can we keep this topic basic and simple without introducing the difficult jargon? In fact, at this time we are still working on the language, so we can revise the article as needed. As for keeping ISO low to get the best out of images, please read the whole article. We list specific reasons when ISO needs to be increased, such as when motion blur needs to be removed from images. Unless you are dealing with a moving subject, or moving camera, it is best to keep ISO as close to its base ISO as possible. Auto ISO is great and we have a separate article that covers it in detail : Once again, thank you for your valuable feedback and I am looking forward to your reply. Hello Nasim, thanks a lot for taking the time to reply. Keep it simple is a nice idea, but is simple not more complicated? I just think on keep ISO as low as possible — yes, agreed, but with that a lot of inconveniences destroying the simple concept. Amplifying the output of a sensor to me is like an anlogy of amplifying the output of a microphone which has the sort of same downsides. If you push it too much, noise increases — int he picture or recording? In both, of course. A more simple recipe — as I see it — will just lead to more half-knowledge and misleading ideas. The sensitivity the given base ISO is not touched by the fact that before the camera writes the received information to the memory card, something happens in between the process of catching the given amount of light. Which is a cooperation of aperture and shutter speed. Auto-ISO will avoid some problems and rarely lead to bad image quallity. The one of the car radio: Iso is exactly like the volume button on your radio. Dear Joachim, Here is actual measured noise data for a modern Sony sensor in a recent camera. As you can see electronic noise is reduced with ISO going up: ISO Shadow Noise, e- 50 4. If you look further, it is explained in detail that ISO also impacts things like noise and potentially makes images unusable. There is always a trade-off. Please keep in mind that this article is for beginners. Interesting explanation, very good for those that are too young to have ever worked with actually film camera. I am from that era and I just equate ISO to film speeds. The faster film had a grainier image quality because of the larger silver halide crystals needed to capture low level light. I experimented once with 15600 speed film — wow, very grainy. In digital cameras your pixel count is sort of equivalent to the silver halide crystals, as you increase your ISO you are grouping pixels together to capture more light in essence resulting in a lower pixel count thus graininess or pixelation. This is a simplistic view and does not mean that a sensor with less megapixels is more sensitive. You really have to under science to be able to comprehend this hint: look down at the molecular level. Romas, thank you for your feedback. We have changed this article quite a bit — went from ISO being sensitivity similar to film, to defining it a bit more accurately, but hopefully still in an accessible manner to beginners. There are also other damages such as dynamic range , but we decided to exclude more advanced terms from these basics articles for now. This is one topic that has been beaten to death out on the inter-webs. For those that need more to chew on this a bit more just copy and paste or highlight and go! Thank you for the link Stephen. It is a great article that goes into a lot more detail about ISO and things like invariance which we talked about in a separate article before , which are way out of the league for someone who is starting out. Think of your sensor as being an array of buckets: An empty bucket is considered a black pixel, a full bucket is considered a white pixel. How is that related to noise? Imagine that at the same time you are filling your buckets it is raining. Not so at higher ISO with small buckets, now the rain will actually become a problem and it gets worse the smaller the buckets become: The rain starts affecting your image because some buckets randomly fill up faster than others, you begin to see the rain in your pictures. That rain is the noise. Unfortunately, this is an incorrect analogy, albeit a commonly repeated one. NOT outside beneath clouds on a sunny, windy day. Increasing ISO causes the camera to capture less light?!! So, how does that work for us? Changing ISO from 100 to 200 might require amplification of the signal captured by the exposure by a factor of 2, to compensate for the halving of exposure related to halving of shutter-speed, as determined by doubling of ISO. Why does this matter? Regards, John — TKA Note: For the sake of simplicity I have assumed that only shutter-speed is changed as ISO is increased with the camera in P rogram mode — — This may not be true in all cases. The same overall logic applies, tho. Changing ISO from 100 to 200 might require amplification of the signal captured by the exposure by a factor of 2, to compensate for the halving of exposure related to halving of shutter-speed, as determined by doubling of ISO. It is circular reasoning, which is a logical fallacy. Setting a camera to programmed exposure mode P , then faffing around with its ISO setting in order to obtain the desired shutter speed, is absurd. Teaching this to beginners is way beyond absurd. A desired shutter speed can be set using either manual exposure mode or shutter-priority automatic exposure mode. Once set, a suitable ISO speed can be set either manually or automatically auto ISO. John, All you have demonstrated is that increasing the ISO speed setting decreases the exposure when using an automatic exposure mode. NB: Automatic exposure modes simply automate the manual process. You have failed to explain why the exposure needs to reduce as ISO increases. The photographic image brightness will not change as ISO is changed, in your example, therefore the sensitivity of something to light must be increasing as ISO increases. What is that something? {{ … increasing the ISO speed setting decreases the exposure when using an automatic exposure mode. {{ … the sensitivity of something to light must be increasing as ISO increases. An explanation using changes in ISO setting to change the exposure — see comment 36. Changing the ISO setting does change the sensitivity of the sensor because, currently, there are no sensors which are truly ISO invariant. The sensors in the Nikon D3 series, D4 series, and the D5 do indeed increase their sensitivity as ISO is increased above their base ISO. These sensors are far from being ISO invariant. You have made it obvious that you do not adequately understand the things you write about. You are providing a wonderful example of the mess that results when someone uses opinion-based rhetoric instead of the relevant fields of evidence-based science. Hi Pete and John, I think this discussion stems from a misunderstanding. Both of you definitely understand that ISO is not itself a part of exposure, even if the analogy John provided in his earlier comment gave a flawed impression. High-performance detectors have a full well capacity many times greater than 16,383 the maximum count of 14-bit binary. Thanks for the excellent article Nasim. In the manual of my Nikon D7500 i read that iso Lo -1 can being seen as an equivalent of iso 50. Can you explain in a simple way what exactly iso Lo-1 does? In the mean time i think to use a gradual ND filter to reduce the light in those situations. I assume that the result will be better than iso Lo-1? Thanks in advance for your reply Kind regards, Hedwig Lo-modes behave like their respective ISOs, meaning you can take correctly exposured pictures as if they actually were ISO 50 and so on. You will notice that your lights will blow out much easier than with the native ISO. In that sense Lo-modes are a crutch and should only be used if you have no other choice. Find out what the sweet spot of your lens is and stick to that f-stop, only go higher if DOF demands it. Nasim, Great to see a simplified article about which keep the simplification as much close as possible to the reality. This is not the case in many other pages. In Digital Photography School for example they wrote a few month ago article with simplification that completely distorted the reality e. I have even been banned from their forum to point this out politely! Seems that ISO topics is some how emotional! As I teach the physics of detection, I have quite a bunch of pedagogic materials if interested and you need to go further on that topic. Otherwise, tho, another thoroughly good article from the PL team. The only part I disagree with is 7. Setting the ISO is only an option available during the initial capture of the image, and it is recorded in the EXIF data. You can modify RAW files to an extent, but the Aperture, Shutter, and ISO cannot be changed in post. Changing the ISO setting does not change the exposure! The required ISO setting depends on the exposure. Nasim, thank you for the great article. If this is a rare subject and you want to get the best image as it gets dark, is it better to set your ISO upper limit to the maximum of the camera? HI, earlier this week I tried to take pictures of my family during a flower event, and the background and the faces would be not as sharp as I want it to be, even after I focused onto the face and changed the Aperture so that the faces stood out. Could you help me out with this? I am using a Sony A6000 with the lenses that came with it. I just started phtography a few days ago and this helped me out a bunch! Thanks in advance Nasim! Great article and your website has really educated me on important aspects of photography. What lens would you recommend for mainly wildlife photography? Appreciate and value your guidance. Thank you and admire your work! I have a point and shoot IXUS50 Canon Powershot running a CHDK intervalometer. The camera takes pictures every 3 seconds and points upwards towards the parachute and balloon. I was wonderingg if you would mind commenting on this? Many thanks Phil Sir, if we increase ISO value then y r we gonna face the problem of noise or grain in our photo… I mean we r clicking a photo right… then where will the noise come from?? My question is related to nighttime shooting. I would love to be able to capture nighttime car lights in motion and blurred , street lights and city light images. The lighting is almost always very poor. I use 70-200 F2. I have a hard time getting my shutter speed fast enough to capture a CLEAR shot of the very fast moving horses and managing my ISO. The outdoor shoots are great…. Just the low-light shooting of fast horses.
We recommend that you raise ISO sensitivity only as high as needed to avoid blur. The harder i try to tacke photos the worst the out come. Increasing the ISO setting only increases the gain applied to the image. Higher-end cameras also perform quite a bit better than entry-level cameras. I am wondering what calculation is used to determine Shutter Speed. Also picked up Sony Xperia Z1 Compact that comes with a very decent 20MP camera onboard. Select the value you want, or set it to Auto. They want to keep their ISO low for high quality images low noisebut also they need a fast enough shutter speed to get a sharp picture.
